The connections that specialty coffee provides

‘Specialty coffee is about high quality and good relationships.’ Anyone who works in this niche will have heard this phrase before. In this sense, when it comes to a value-added product, several factors are taken into account, in addition to the score and its sensory characteristics. So, there’s nothing better than direct contact between the customer and the source to gather information about production, sustainable practices, social projects, etc. There are many connections to be made with specialty coffee.

Ricky Dyson is one of the clients of SMC Specialty Coffees, a company controlled by Cooxupé. First and foremost, he works with his partners in the US market. Idle Hands imports micro-lots of speciality coffees and blends through SMC. And, beforehand, he was very satisfied with both the quality of the beans and the service he received.

Here’s an exclusive interview with Ricky. In the conversation, he talks about his professional history, his partnership with SMC and the connections provided by Brazilian specialty coffees. By the way, the chat appeared in Folha Rural.

Trajectory

1. How and when did your career in coffee begin? What was the starting point and what has it been like today?

I began my coffee journey after moving from Melbourne to Sydney, Australia, where I started working as a barista. I quickly realized how intricate the world of coffee could be, and over the next 10 years, I continued learning about various aspects of the industry. My career path followed a typical trajectory: from barista to bar manager, then into education and training, followed by roles in green coffee approval, quality assurance, and green grading as a certified Q Grader. Eventually, I made an international move to the U.S., where I gained insight into different coffee markets. In late 2021, I co-founded Idle Hands Roasting Co with friends, and more recently, I became a head judge for the prestigious Cup of Excellence program.

2. How did you get to know SMC? What circumstances created this partnership?

My first introduction to SMC was at the 2018 Cup of Excellence program in Guaxupé, where SMC was the in-country partner and sponsor for that year. Watching Maria and Priscilla interact with the cooperative members we visited and hearing them speak about Cooxupé and SMC left a strong impression on me. Their hospitality, along with that of the SMC team and the coop members, really resonated with me. At the time, I was working for another company, but when we started Idle Hands, I reached out to reconnect with them and one of the producers we met in 2018. Since then, we’ve made repeat purchases each and every year

Connections

3. You often visit the SMC and producer families. What was your experience like during this year’s visits? What is your view of the specialty coffees presented, produced by cooperative members, and of Brazilian production in general?

Brazil is one of the most fascinating coffee origins to visit. Its advanced technology, particularly in post-harvest processing and sorting, combined with its geography, forest management practices, and scale of production, sets it apart. The sustainability measures implemented on farms are something worth celebrating. It appears more common than not and specialty producers in Brazil are paving the way in a lot of areas.

The coffees I’ve sourced from SMC and its partners are always exceptional, especially those with higher perceived qualities—florals, white and yellow stone fruits, or tropical fruit notes—which are distinctive and unique. In 2023, I had the privilege of cupping the coffees in the Especialíssimo Program, and they were some of my favorite coffees of the year. Even the more “typical” coffee profiles from Brazil consistently resonate with the average North American consumer. The diversity of coffee profiles in Brazil reflects the diversity of the country itself!

Quality and good practice

4. From an importer’s point of view, both in terms of quality and information that goes beyond the cup, what do you and your customers usually look for in our coffees?

We purchase a range of coffee profiles to meet our customers’ preferences; some like fruit forward “high end” coffees and others enjoy classic, sweet and chocolatey. When selecting coffees, whether from Brazil or other origins, we’ve made a conscious decision to move beyond the singul pursuit of quality above all else. While we’ve been fortunate to connect with exceptional producers and receive beautiful coffees, we understand the challenges growers can face. This is why we’ve committed to making ongoing purchases from the same farms every year, with the goal of long-term partnerships.

Some forms of regenerative practices have been important to us, though not a rule or requirement. From what we’ve learned, this approach seems to represent the best path forward for sustainability—both economically and environmentally. In the end, both us and our customers want the producers we buy from to succeed!

Sustainability

5. What are your expectations for the future of the specialty coffee market?

I’m optimistic about the future of better and more stable coffee prices for growers, driven by a more connected world where consumers, through social media and other platforms, can continue to see the realities of coffee production. I believe producers will succeed, and that more roasters and consumers will be willing to support their efforts.

I think that sustainability measures, environmental, community and social, economic impacts will be more and more of an important part of the industries portfolio; for cafes, roasters, importers and exporters and producers that have the means.

With labor challenges becoming more common in other countries, I think the specialty sector will increasingly recognize that mechanically assisted harvesting and post-harvest techniques for better sorting is the way forward for many countries and continue to learn from Brazil as it paves the way forward in many areas.

6. Finally, could you give a special message to our members?

Cooxupé and SMC are among the most incredible coffee organizations I’ve had the privilege to work with. Their commitment to producers, the dedication of those producers to the cooperative, and their shared focus on sustainability, equity, and inclusion—which comes in many forms—are inspiring.

It’s always an honor to visit and learn from everyone at the coop. Seeing and celebrating their achievements in cup quality, environmental stewardship, and the constant drive for improvement creates a sense of community that extends far beyond the coop. And I think that adds to the success of coffee both in Brazil and internationally. Thank you for all you do!